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Tuesday
May082012

Listener interaction - Get involved and Google Plus Hangouts

So myself and Rick have been talking about how we can get you guy directly involved, get you interacting with us, LIVE, so to speak.

Up until now there's been 2 options, using a service like Ustream or Google Plus Hangouts. Ustream was top of the list because you can record the feed, people can join without an account. However, today Google has announced that everyone can start to broadcast Hangouts LIVE on G+ and on Youtube.

Which means you don't need a G+ account, just a Youtube one. You can post questions directly into the YT comments, they appear live. You can also join in the conversation via an invite, so we could get you guy on air and we can talk to you.

I believe this has massive potential, we could even record the podcast this way, still having the audio download but spreading it to Youtube.

Anyway we'd love to hear what you guys think, we really want your direct involvement.

Sunday
May062012

Flash Exposure Part 4–ISO

In this post we are going to look at another variable of flash exposure ISO.  As we all know by now our normal exposure triangle (not including flash) is made up of shutter speed, aperture and ISO if your not sure on that go check out NTP Podcast Episode 4

Ok when we introduce flash yes we bring in other exposure variables but those variable in the exposure triangle have a baring on exposure and the overall image when dealing with flash.  You can see the effects of changing the ISO has on flash exposure in the video below as well as the still images in this post.

 

 

So ISO controls the sensitivity of your cameras sensor to light (any given light) as you increase it your image will get brighter and as you decrease it your image will get darker.

We start with a good exposure at ISO 200 (ignoring the other variables).

ISO 200


For the next frame we increased the ISo from 200 to 400 (1 Stop) which increases exposure resulting in an over exposed image.

ISO 400


Now if we go the other way and drop down to ISO 100 decreasing exposure (by 2 stops) from the current ISO400 shot above we will see a dramatic different now we have decreased the cameras sensitivity to light.

ISO 100

 

We can see from the above video and images how ISO effect our flash exposure, but remember its part of the exposure triangle and ISO will also affect ambient light.

We will have blog posts and videos bringing all these thing together and problem solve (after all that's what we do as photographers) as we shoot.

Any questions can be emailed or tweeted, and you can comment below.  Love to hear back from your guys.

 

NTP

Thursday
May032012

Flash Exposure Part 3 –Distance To Subject

In this post and video we take a look at what effect changing the distance between your light source and subject has.

As you can see in the video above when you change that distance between your light source  and your subject it has an effect on exposure. How much of an effect depends on how big of a change you make.

The set up we have is a Phottix 70cm soft box with a Speedlight inside set on some power output that escapes me right now, and Mark is set leaning against a plain wall. The light was triggers with manual wireless triggers so no auto anything and the Camera was set on Manual.

The image below show what I feel is a good exposure, remember no such thing as a correct exposure.  Mark is well lit and skin tones look good but he could of smiled Smile 

Good Exposure


In the next frame I change the working distance of the light source by moving it closer.  The exposure setting both in camera and on the flash (see flash power post) were left the same, we can see as that distance is reduced and the light brought in closer it will increase exposure.  This can be helpful in situations where your at full power, wide open aperture and your ISO is where you want it… you can move the light closer to gain a little exposure.

IMG_4282


Now we will move that light further away beyond our good exposure position and see the opposite effect (reduced exposure) as seen in the image below. So as we move the light further away we reduce exposure.

IMG_4283


All of these variables of exposure/ flash exposure are worth taking the time to learn folks, as they will all come in to play during shooting and when you start to move or refine the the light position (more on that soon).  Talking about distance again you may find you have to move the light closer due to a limit in flash power meaning a compromise in composition, as a result your exposure will increase and you will need to compensate by lowering flash power or stopping down your lens (or a combination of both) depending on your situation,  knowing this will help when out in the field shooting.

Go grab your gear, set your light up and practice on any subject its the only way to get it all down pat.

Any questions you can send us a tweet or email & we would love to hear how you are getting along.

Happy practice and shooting guys.

Rick

NTP

Saturday
Apr212012

Review: Magneflash Splash Flash Head

I first became aware of the Magneflash back in 2010 while attending Focus on Imaging herMagneflash Splash M30e in the UK. Peter Louden and his son had a small stall at the event showing their innovative lighting produce called Magneflash ‘Splash’, Back then they only had prototype but you could get a feeling of how the system would work.

Since then the ‘Splash’ system has come to market and Peter was very kind in sending out one of the unit for NTP to review. The M30 is the basic unit from Magneflash range, it has a Guide Number of 30 and a good short flash duration of 1/4000s and is a self contained unit which makes it totally portable. The built in battery is a good for 150+ pops at full power, fine for most shoots. To charge it there’s a port on the side, takes around 2 hours from flat to full charge. Also there’s a built in flash optical slave trigger  so you don’t need a trigger if in the right conditions.

It’s built out of a very tough plastic sealed unit, you can’t take a screwdriver to this and tinker. There’s also an permanent stand bracket, I say permanent, you could take it off if you really wanted to but then you’d be left with no way of mounting it one a stand.

The M30 spigot Mount System

The bracket again is made of the same tough plastic and allow for adjustment from vertical to around 30° below horizontal. One thing to note about the bracket, it’s a unique design and works more like a a compression joint on copper piping.

As you can see from the picture (left) I have it mounted on a regular umbrella bracket with the cold shoe removed and a spigot screwed in place. The Splashes compression system does actually work, it gripped the spigot and the side locking bolt is just there to stop it from spinning.

While I’m talking about the bracket there is a design, fault is too strong a word, as designThe M30 mounted on a umbrella bracket with the cold shoe removed omission. There is no way to mount the flash on a umbrella, nothing. You either have to do as I have here and mount it on a bracket that allows you to remove the cold shoe or strap it the the mono blog itself. Having said that it is true that speedlights don’t come with a way to attach them to a modifiers and you have to get a bracket, I just feel that it could have been added, the unit is plenty strong enough to take it.

Talking of modifiers Magneflash do supply an ‘S’ mount adapter that lets you add a 7” reflector. The adapter is a detachable add-on, again made from the same tough plastic as the rest of the unit. It’s a very simple design that works very well, a reflector sits in nicely and doesn’t feel like it would fall out. The actual adapter mounts onto the unit via 4 locking tabs on the back. At first I really wasn’t sure about these ‘tabs’ they just didn’t seem like that could hold anything but I found they work rather well if not fiddly to install. Although don’t go expecting to mount a 28” beauty dish on there, that's just not going to work.

The Tabs for mounting the 'S' adapter

 

Operating the unit

 

Using the ‘Splash’ is simplicity itself, on the back of the unit you have 4 buttons a sync port and a 4 LED power indicator. From right to left you have

  • Power on/off
  • Flash Test Button
  • 4 LED Power indicator
  • +25%
  • +50%
  • 3.5mm Sync post at the bottom

The controls of the Splash M30

 

You can only control the output in percentages from 25% to 100"%, this is done via a combination of the power buttons, the default is 25% - 1 light. Pressing the 25% button will increases power to 50% – 2 lights. To get 75% you select the 50% button if you’re at the default. And to get full power you press both 25 and 50% buttons.

 

Using the Magneflash ‘Splash’

 

Alas I have to report that using the ‘Splash’ in the real world I wasn’t that impressed, it lacks power, the bracket is too different, not sure why there’s isn’t a industry standard umbrella style bracket fitted. The way the ‘S’ mount  adapter attaches is very fiddly to fit.

But the biggest issue is the flash output, it’s inconsistent and very slow to recycle. At 25% you can get maybe 4 pops before the capacitors are empty. It gets even slower at full power, you’ll get 1 pop then you have to wait from 6-10 seconds before it’s ready again, compared to a speedlight it’s an absolute age.

As for the output, I was shocked to find that from pop to pop the output jumped. Testing the unit with a Sekonic L-358 from 6’ away at 25% I was getting readings of f/5.6 o f/4.5! Needless to say I couldn’t work with that, I’m used to have a consistent output from my 430EX speedlight. Once I have my exposure dialled in the only time I want it to change is when I change something, not when the flash decides to alter it by a 1 or 2 thirds.

 

The Magneflash Splash M30 inside a Westcott Apollo 28"

 

Verdict

I really wanted this flash to be awesome, having a self contained, splash resistant, lightweight portable flash is very appealing. But the issue of the flash output means I’ll have to stick with my trusty and reliable speedlights for now.

 

Mark.

NTP.

Tuesday
Apr172012

Flash Exposure Part 2 - Flash Power

In part 2 of the 5 part series I talk about Flash power and how the output of your flash affects the exposure. Now if you haven't already, please read and watch part 1 it's critical that you understand how aperture is the primary factor when getting the correct exposure when using flash.

Now the second factor is the actual amount of light your given light source, be it speedlight, mono block or continuous, produces. Most light source have a certain amount of control meaning you can adjust their output. This has a direct effect on your exposure. Adjusting the output means you either have to open up your aperture to allow more light in or stop it down to let less light in.

You may be wondering why you'd want to adjust the output? "Surely you would just adjust the aperture to gain the right exposure?" And you're totally correct, however maybe by doing this you start brining some of the background into focus because of the increased depth of field a small aperture gives you. But you don't want that as it distracts from the subject. Well you can either move the subject away from the background (see inverse square law) or move the light further away (see part 3) but the simplest way is to change the power of the light. Lowering the power will allow you to open up the aperture which in turn gives you a shallower DoF.

 

 

It can be confusing, this is why we've broken down flash exposure into 5 episode, hopefully by the end you'll be able to bring it all together and know which element to use and when.

 

Mark.

NTP